More pictures from the 2024 Iowa Water Conference -
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| Topsoil - sadly our biggest export |
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| Nitrogen, nitrates and health |
More pictures from the 2024 Iowa Water Conference -
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| Topsoil - sadly our biggest export |
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| Nitrogen, nitrates and health |
This project was one of several projects that came after we relocated the Sprout Garden and installed the Drake Food Forest. The Tom and Ruth Harkin Center was initially designed and built to bring an innovative mixture of accessibility and sustainability to the campus experience. It serves a place for, despite the name, non-partisan research and outreach around policy issues important to Senator Harkin.
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| Asters blooming as the planting was finished |
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| Kelly Norris and Jeff Reiland |
Step one was to remove the existing prairie dropseed and white blooming echinacea to prepare the area prior to new plant delivery. Some of these were relocated to the Sprout rain garden/contour swales.
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| A sleeping Monarch... better get a move on! |
"The Ruth Harkin Garden at The Harkin Institute on Drake University's campus, a living model for how bioswales can look and function in the urban landscape. I'm proud of this #planting we did in 2021, the first of two phases of this project, completed in 2022.
We can partner with plant life for a more verdant, diverse, and complex ecosystem within the envelope of human activities. Living infrastructure can only fulfill its promise when plants are in the lead. While the concept gets a lot of air time these days, the results often lack vibrant vegetation. We hope this project serves as an example for why initial plant diversity and density matters." Kelly Norris
Watch for the Phase 2 update!
Cooler autumn temperatures help reduce transplant stress and moisture loss. As long as the soil temperature is above 50°F the roots of the tree are still growing. This extra time, typically into mid-November in Iowa, enables roots to get some extra growth before going fully dormant.
Soil Temperature & Garden Plants
Autumn's arrival might even bring more rain than the hot and dry weather we've had lately and typical of late summer. Combine this with the cooler temperatures and your trees might not use as much water as they would during the spring growth spurt and summer heat. Even during the fall your newly planted tree will still require watering, however, especially to hydrate the subsoil well going into winter.
One thing to consider is that these recommendations are for potted or container trees. We don't plant dormant bare-root material in the fall in our climate. They are hard to keep from drying out and winter will almost certainly kill a bare-root tree planted too late in fall in the North. Early spring is a much better time to plant bare root trees!"The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago, and the next best time is now!"
When winter arrives your care activities can "chill out" for a few months, but...
You'll want to keep young trees protected from deer and rabbits (more on that here)
Ask an Arborist: Why Should I Plant in the Fall? (youtube.com)
You might be wondering "How do I plant a tree well?" Here is a quick overview of how we plant our trees-
Step 1 - Dig hole to a depth of 2" less than the rootball height and twice as wide. You want the root crown just above the surrounding soil.Step 2 - Remove the container and break up/cut any pot bound/circling roots, place in hole, and backfill about halfway. Make sure tree is straight and plum.
Step 3 - Deeply water around the tree letting the water settle the soil. Finish backfilling and watering.
Step 4 - If needed tie up tree for stability. Two T-posts at the North and South sides, driven outside of the excavated area, are usually enough. Tie using wide straps with enough tension to allow flexing to strengthen trunks, but not so loose to tip or lean in strong winds.
Step 5 - Mulch in a ring 4'- 6' in diameter, 3-4” deep with hardwood mulch. Leave several inches between the mulch and trunk to prevent fungal infection.
Avoid the mulch volcano... instead go for a mulch donut!
Over the next few weeks and months observe and water as necessary until the tree is fully established.
Water daily for 1-2 weeks; then 2-3 days for 3-12 weeks; then weekly until established
Apply 1-1.5 gallons per inch of caliper (trunk diameter) at each watering
If the ground does happen to thaw in winter, it would be a good idea to try and see if you can get some water to your young tree. Winter's drying winds can evaporate moisture from the soil, especially if we don't have a protective blanket of snow.
A smaller tree will take nearly a full growing season to become fully established. A 2" tree may require two years to become fully established on its own while a 3" tree may need three years. The larger the tree, the bigger the shock so continue to be diligent and observant even long after the initial planting and water accordingly.
"A society grows great when old men plant trees under whose shade they know they’ll never sit."
Need help planning and planting this fall? Abundant Design offers Consultation, Design, Installation, and Stewardship services. The fall offers a great opportunity to plant, and it’s also a great time to start planning and designing for next season. We can help!
Here's a fun video we helped make with the Rain Campaign to showcase rain gardens as a Stormwater Best Management Practice. Their videos help encourage homeowners to consider rain gardens and other best management practices to help with stormwater runoff mitigation and to help them with potential problems in their own yards - erosion, soggy areas, etc.
We had already been working with the homeowners in conjunction with the Easter Lake Watershed coordinator to help them with their yard issues and reduce the storm surge into the lake. The following pictures show the flooding and poor drainage they were dealing with in their yard. You can also see Easter Lake behind the trees and shrubs.
Watch the video here, with project photos following.
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| Berms constructed, amended soil blend added |
After photos of the dry stream which collects and moves rainwater from the downspouts to the basin.
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| Rain Garden - After |
Stay tuned for more videos!
Earlier this season we had been joking that even though we were busy, we hadn't done a single rain garden installation yet. We had done some revamping of a couple older ones, an edible landscape for a commercial project, several large native plantings and a homestead orchard.
Little did we know that we would do two back-to-back rain garden installs, that also wanted to include as many food producing plants as possible!
This first project in Clive was the first to use their newly retooled cost share program (link).
The other was in Des Moines, and after a little time to think it through, they decided to go for it!
More details on these projects are coming up, but I was excited to share the combination of stormwater, natives and edible plants and trees!
Earlier this year the Polk County Water Resources team asked us to help with a special project. They were hoping to try a new prairie sod product they had learned about by webinar. There was a small drainage easement near Ankeny that was a likely candidate for this project, and the neighboring homeowners had been fighting weeds and water issues for several years while trying to maintain the space.
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| Before - First Look Messy drainage easement from the outlet |
Many suburban developments have a drainage easement that runs along the back property edges. A lot of homeowners can have issues with poor turf grass quality and drainage issues in these areas, especially if the grading is variable at installation or settling over time. These issues usually get worse as you get closer to the end.
With steady Spring rains delaying cutting, a communication mix-up and surprise shipping date, the schedule was in a bit of a kerfuffle, but we rearranged our plate and things turned out ok. Pfew!
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| Native Prairie Sod, delivered and untarped |
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| Native Prairie Sod |
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| After - Prairie Sod |
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| After - Overlooking the easement from above the stormwater outlet |
We design and install edible landscapes, we are NOT edible landscapers...
...someone needs to inform the ticks and mosquitoes!
A recent article I read mentioned that some invasive species of plants can increase populations of ticks! It turns out, the dense, thorny Japanese Barberry shrub is actually great habitat for ticks.
How an invasive plant is helping ticks survive
“Barberry thickets actually make a pretty good habitat, not just for ticks but for some of their host species,” said Susan Elias, a research associate at the Lyme and Vector-Borne Disease Laboratory at the Maine Medical Center Research Institute in Scarborough. “You’re creating a perfect storm, when you have these non-native species coming into the landscape.”
One of our last job sites had a TON of ticks (quite a few have this year), and we removed several barberry shrubs in addition to the retaining walls and prairie bed install. I don't know that the ticks were living here with the abundance of other habitat nearby, but it will keep these bushes from reseeding (with help from birds) throughout their acreage and other natural spaces.
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| Invasive Barberry, ouch! |